Earlier blogs we have covered Maharastrian jewelry and this blog is dedicated to Punjabi wedding jewelry.
The impact of Punjabi jewelry lies outside of amplitude, in diversity and aesthetics. It is in fact a part of the Indian culture, a facet of its social pattern with deep spiritual overtones, and has to be viewed against this perception.
In today’s world, diverse form of jewelry - traditional, ethnic, gold, silver, stones, gems etc - are in rage throughout India but the conventional jewelry of several regions is at the summit. Different states in India generate some exclusive varieties of jewelry that symbolize the legacies and cultures of the regions. For instance, the south is prominent for its sophisticated temple jewelry, the east constantly stands out for bedded jewelry, the west is the focal point of some best superiority emulate and stone jewelry and the north comes in when it’s about marvelously carved and designed ornaments.
A Punjabi bride’s wedding ornaments would inevitably include golden jewelry and bangles and the most imperative jewelry section in Punjabi wedding is the Churha (wedding bangles) which are a set of red and white bridal bangles. To add more charm to the churhas, light ornaments made of beaten silver and gold, called Kalira, are attached to these.
Besides, as part of the bridal decoration on the day of the wedding, the bride wears traditional heavy gold jewelry and a gleaming pendant called Tikka in the parting of the hair. A sweet, slim Nath prettifies the nose. After adding all the visual beauties, a pair of Nupurs round the ankles brings in the music that enlivens the beauty of the jewelry-laden bride.
The groom also adorns the Ornaments made of Gold and Pearls in the ceremony. The jewelry varies and includes -Sarpesh, the jewelry worn in front of the turban, Kutbiladar – an oval adornment worn over the forehead, Kalgi – column in jeweled setting or a Turah-I-marwarid which is a tassel of pearls worn on the turban of the groom. The grooms adorns a Mala which is a necklace of large beads handing down long and loose or a Kanth-kanthi that fits rather close to the neck, the pendant may be omitted. Nam – an amulet, round or star shaped, suspender from a twist of colored silk thread fastened round the neck by tying at the back or a Tawiz,Zanjiri and Chandarmah
The bride is adorned with jewelry and the jewelry varies from the head jewelry to the anklets. The jewelry for forehead are the Sisphul, chaunk or choti phul which is a round boss worn on the hair over the forehead. Mauli is a long chain made of rows of pearls separated by jeweled studs, hanging from the head on one side and the ser mang – a pendant worn on the head by Hindus.
The Bride’s Necklaces are the Chandanhar, Mala – a plain necklace of pearls or gold bead, hanging down long, Champakali – a necklace like a collar with pendants, the pendants or rays are either of plain metal or set with stones, Jugni is a single jeweled pendant, hanging from a necklace of silk and elongated in shape. Mohran – a gold mohur or coin hung by a silk necklace.
Haul Dil – a sort of amulet of jade cut in curves round the edge.
Hassi or Hass – like a torque, a ring or collar of silver, thick in the middle and thin at either end.
Guluband is a jeweled collar.
Mohnmala – a long necklace made of large gold beads, with an interval of gold twisted thread between each bead.
Atradan – a square jeweled or plain gold pendant attached to a silk chain. Kandi – a chain of silk carrying amulet cases. Silwatta is an amulet case, shaped like a small gold pillow or bolster, with two rings suspended from it.
Bride is also dressed up with the jewelry on arm such as arm ornaments. They are of different types such as Bazuband – a broad belt-like ornament generally mounted on silk and tied on the upper arm. Nauratan is almost like bazuband, the ornament consisting of a band of nine gems set side by side and tied by silk ties. Taviz is an amulet worn on the upper arm. Anant – meaning endless, a large thin but solid ring of gold or silver, used chiefly by Hindus.
Bhawatta – a square gold ornament, worn on the upper arm.
Coming to the other ornaments of Bride, she adorns a jewelry on her nose which varies from Nath which is a large nose ring, one side of ring being ornamented with a belt of jewels or a few pearls hung on to it, Bulak – a small pendant, Latkan – a sort of ornament of pendants put on to the thin gold ring called a nath, and hanging from it, Morni – a small pendant for the above, shaped like the spread out tail of a peacock, Laung – a small stud , generally of gold, with a pearl or turquoise on it, Phuli – a small ring with a single emerald, or other stone of an oval shape, as a pendant and a Bohr which is a dangling pendant of gold pipal-leaves.
The bride is also dressed up for the ceremony with different types of fingerings, bracelets, and anklets.
Jewelry plays an important part in Indian wedding and Punjabi wedding has a history of it.